We spent the day driving to where our hike began at the end of the road near Ristolas, France. We left St Marcel in the Savoie early in the morning and drove up over the mountain pass where the Tour de France always goes, the Col de Galibier. You can see many names of racers painted on the road surface with encouraging words to keep going. I can't imagine riding a bike up or down that steep, winding pass. And even though it was August, it was freezing cold.
The pass at Col du Galibier was closed because of a race so we had to wait it out. We had tea and hot chocolate at the small restaurant. It was freezing cold despite it being August.
After that we wound our way up and over Col d'Izoard, another spectacular steep narrow road frequently part of the Tour de France, before dropping into the beautiful green valleys of the Queyras.
We finally made it to the trail head parking area after passing through Ristolas. We packed our gear, filled up with water, locked up the cars and headed out.
Trail signs are one thing, but we will never be lost with our guide du montagne.
Refuge du Mont Viso
Our first night was at the refuge du Mont Viso. It was a steady climb up through a narrow valley that eventually brought us traversing a ridge before arriving at the refuge. The hike took several hours, shorter than most days, but that was perfect since we had a late start.
As always in the evening, we had a great meal and great camaraderie at the communal dinner tables. The staff put on an entertaining musical show for us after dinner with Trombone, fiddle, guitar and singing. This refuge has typical rooms with 8 bunks to each room, showers and bathrooms down the hall.
Trail signs are one thing, but we will never be lost with our guide du montagne.
Refuge du Mont Viso
Our first night was at the refuge du Mont Viso. It was a steady climb up through a narrow valley that eventually brought us traversing a ridge before arriving at the refuge. The hike took several hours, shorter than most days, but that was perfect since we had a late start.
As always in the evening, we had a great meal and great camaraderie at the communal dinner tables. The staff put on an entertaining musical show for us after dinner with Trombone, fiddle, guitar and singing. This refuge has typical rooms with 8 bunks to each room, showers and bathrooms down the hall.
Having a beer with Paco, the donkey at Refuge du Mont Viso.
The view from our room. Mont Viso in it's setting sun glory with an almost full moon above.
The next day after leaving Refuge de Mont Viso, we hiked up out of France and over into Italy. We passed by the eastern entrance of the tunnel, or "Hole of Viso" that had been carved through the rock near the top of the pass. It was first used as a trade route in the 15th century and can still be used today.
This was an interesting day of hiking as we passed by so many remnants from the World Wars -- bunkers, barbed wire, gun placements. Like many passes we've travelled over in the Alps, this was heavily fortified during both World Wars.
Eventually we dropped down into a steep valley where we found local beekeepers selling honey. We stopped at this little bar to have refreshments before heading up to Rifugio Quintino Sella.
On the way to Rifugio Quintino Sella.
Rifugio Quintino Sella
We spent the second and third nights at the Rifugio Quintino Sella in Italy. This rifugio was named for one of the earliest, if not first, guides who led climbs up Mont Viso. The rooms were smaller than usual with 4 bunks each and bathrooms down a flight or two of stairs, but still comfortable. This was a large refuge with only two showers in the basement, so everyone lined up and patiently waited for their turn.
Very important to know -- you must first purchase your shower token (or two if you want a longer shower) before going downstairs to get in line. I learned this the hard way. We spent two nights here and on the second day, we did a long day hike and cross country trek.
Very important to know -- you must first purchase your shower token (or two if you want a longer shower) before going downstairs to get in line. I learned this the hard way. We spent two nights here and on the second day, we did a long day hike and cross country trek.
Our cross country hike started out by dropping down to Rifugio Alpetto where we had some refreshments and then got the key from the guardian to a small museum that was actually the first rifugio used by Quintino Sella himself in the early days of guiding on Mont Viso. It was a surprise to see this interesting, well-kept museum high in the alps far from any roads. They seem to let anybody in, no matter how shifty.
We then proceeded to cross country over to the trail on the other side of a scree slope. It saved us many miles of hiking way down and back up again. As it was, we were hiking all day to get back to the rifugio. It was a fantastic day of hiking through high alpine meadows.
We were up early the next morning, had our typical Italian breakfast of coffee, tea and toast.
We then proceeded to cross country over to the trail on the other side of a scree slope. It saved us many miles of hiking way down and back up again. As it was, we were hiking all day to get back to the rifugio. It was a fantastic day of hiking through high alpine meadows.
We were up early the next morning, had our typical Italian breakfast of coffee, tea and toast.
Rifugio Vallanta
Our fourth night was spent at Refugio Vallanta. This was a long day of hiking but we passed through so many different environments from high meadow, alpine lakes, forest, valley bottom, old mountain huts for shepherds and back up into high meadow.
After we left Quintino Sella, we hiked up past a long string of moriane lakes where thousands of rock cairns of all shapes and sizes were piled up by hikers for who knows how many years. It was an amazing rock fairyland. We stacked up a few cairns ourselves as there was no lack of material.
Luke read his book while hiking the entire trip and I still couldn't keep up with him. It did my librarian's heart good to see such a dedicated reader.
Then we had the big drop down to the valley and back up again to our next refugio high on the mountain. Still in Italy, we were heading back up to the pass for our last night at Rifugio Vallanta. See those clouds? This was the big storm we would find ourselves right in the thick of before long.
After we left Quintino Sella, we hiked up past a long string of moriane lakes where thousands of rock cairns of all shapes and sizes were piled up by hikers for who knows how many years. It was an amazing rock fairyland. We stacked up a few cairns ourselves as there was no lack of material.
Luke read his book while hiking the entire trip and I still couldn't keep up with him. It did my librarian's heart good to see such a dedicated reader.
Then we had the big drop down to the valley and back up again to our next refugio high on the mountain. Still in Italy, we were heading back up to the pass for our last night at Rifugio Vallanta. See those clouds? This was the big storm we would find ourselves right in the thick of before long.
It was later in the day by the time we arrived and the cool beer waiting for me was exactly the thing I needed. Looking out the back of Rifugio Vallanta was a pretty alpine lake with Mont Viso towering up behind.
Refugio Vallente looks kind of weird and out of place considering its spectacular location, but it was very comfortable, warm with wood paneling inside, so really not as bad as it looks.
The next day when we left it was raining hard. After an hour or so we arrived at the pass and it had begun to snow with a fury. We could barely see the trail. Needless to say, we did not linger long to say farewell to Italy as we dropped back down into France. The route down from the pass was very rocky and steep. We encountered a few people coming up and we gave each other our sympathies over the weather.
It is hard to be miserable however, when the scenery is so gorgeous. But there comes a point when the discomfort sets in and since we are all getting wet and very cold, so we diverted and took the trail back to Refuge du Mont Viso for hot chocolate, lunch and a sieste before heading back to the cars.
Most of the days were long hiking and strenuous because of the altitude gained and lost and gained, but nothing scary in my estimation and certainly nothing technical. A few in our group thought they might climb Mont Viso, but it is actually a very technical rock climb and no one had the gear needed to do it.
We arrived soaking wet at the cars, changed into dry clothes, gathered up for the group hike photo and off we went to the south of France to warm up at the beach -- always a nice thing to do after a long distance hike.
It was a culture shock to be high on an alpine pass in a snowstorm in the morning and by late afternoon on the Mediterranean Sea in the old village of Antibes. We'd hoped for some hot beach weather, but it was quite cool. The storm that chased us down the mountain was visiting all over the south of France.
So instead of swimming we went hiking! This is a great hiking trail that follows along the Mediterranean coast near Antibes.
We stayed at the Hotel Beausite, out of town a little way, but a frequent bus to Anitibes was just outside the door or it was easy to drive in to town. Plenty of easy parking in Antibes, but be careful driving into the heart of the city. Super narrow streets and on market day, impossible.
Here is a map that roughly shows where we hiked, but it is not accurate as far as mileage.
View Tour du Mont Viso in a larger map
We arrived soaking wet at the cars, changed into dry clothes, gathered up for the group hike photo and off we went to the south of France to warm up at the beach -- always a nice thing to do after a long distance hike.
It was a culture shock to be high on an alpine pass in a snowstorm in the morning and by late afternoon on the Mediterranean Sea in the old village of Antibes. We'd hoped for some hot beach weather, but it was quite cool. The storm that chased us down the mountain was visiting all over the south of France.
So instead of swimming we went hiking! This is a great hiking trail that follows along the Mediterranean coast near Antibes.
We stayed at the Hotel Beausite, out of town a little way, but a frequent bus to Anitibes was just outside the door or it was easy to drive in to town. Plenty of easy parking in Antibes, but be careful driving into the heart of the city. Super narrow streets and on market day, impossible.
Here is a map that roughly shows where we hiked, but it is not accurate as far as mileage.
View Tour du Mont Viso in a larger map
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