Paris Walks

OK, far from the mountains, but still one of my favorite places on earth to walk, walk and more walk. I often think of the flaneurs, the walking dandies who walked to see and be seen, but traveled miles and miles of Paris streets.

A few tips to start your walking adventures in Paris

• Give up on stylish shoes. A good pair of walking shoes is essential if you are going to survive a day on pavement and cobblestones. Parisian women in heels all have steel feet transplants so don't try to emulate.
• Always have a few extra Euro coin in your pocket for a quick stop in one of the super street side flushers. It can come in handy.
• Just don't smile at everybody you pass by. Parisians will 1)Know (or think) you are an American 2)Think (or know) you are a dimwit. Putting those things together is just not good PR. 3) Not that either distinction is necessarily bad, but my philosophy on travel is to make an attempt to blend in as a way of showing respect to the culture of the place you are visiting. It is not that I want to hide my identity as an American (couldn't do that even if I tried anyway) but I also don't need to flaunt it.
• Step into a doorway or alcove to consult your map or guidebook. Parisians are in a hurry and blocking the sidewalk just isn't being a cool tourist.

I often set out a destination of a few stops when I head out in the morning to walk Paris. Here are some of my favorites I've discovered over the years. For the best of the traditional sights, these would be my picks:

• Musee Orsay -- be sure to go up to top floor to look through the famous clock! This is the floor with my favorite paintings as well.

• Centre Pompidou -- I love this museum. It has one of the best modern art collections in the world. Coming face to face with a Kandinsky or a Matisse can be a life altering experience.  Be sure to go all the way to the top floor for a great view of Paris.

• Louvre -- I love it, but some of the famous paintings can get crowded. The Egyptian stuff is great. Go in the evening if you can -- crowds might be less. Carousel  is a good place to enter the Louvre -- lines aren’t as long -- and good place to get a fast, good lunch. Kind of like a food court.
• Eiffel Tower of course -- not necessarily up - the view is just OK, but walk around it and look up. See it at night when it sparkles.
• St Chapelle -- Exquisite
• Cluny Museum -- archeological museum and really interesting
• Opera -- Tour is really fun and there are one or two per day in English. Go especially if you like Chagall.

I could go on and on -- but my favorite thing to do in Paris is just wander and see the neigborhoods. I like to pick one big site for the day and spend the rest of the time wandering, stopping in cafes to have a beer or chablis.

Favorite neighborhoods : Around L’Odeon, Marais, Rue Mouffetard area.

Music: Be sure to pick up the Pariscope at a kiosk. It lists Wed. to Wed. but has all the free and other music events, markets, tours etc. Look for the Sunday concerts and organ concerts in some of the churches. St Eustache is amazing. They are usually free.

If you are feeling adventurous and want to go to a club for music I recommend Cafe de la Danse. Here is the website so you can see who is playing http://www.cafedeladanse.com/ .  Its an eclectic club with folk, jazz, pop and indy pop. All ages. It is a 5-10 minute walk from Jan’s apt. I went to a concert there and it was so great. Very small, intimate place sit on bleachers. Get in line early to get a seat. Sit half way up or higher so you aren’t blocked by the standing crowd. Bar, but get drinks early to bring to your seat cause it gets crowded. Probably need to buy tickets in advance online. 

Sights

If you are tired of walking and want to see Paris in a leisurely way -- take the boat trip on the Seine River where you’ll see the big time sites. It is very nice. Or take the trip up the Canal St Martin. It is really nice but takes a few hours. You go through the locks and can sit back and watch the Paris life stroll by. Here is one of the main companies that have the tours http://www.canauxrama.com/e_index.html 

Friday night Rando -- rollarbladers start at 10 pm at place d’Italie -- 20,000 sometimes show up -- This can be an amazing sight to see Parisians on wheels.

Les Catacombs

1 place du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy 14e www.catacombes-de-paris.fr 8 euro Tues-Sun 10-5 metro Denfert-Rochereau -- something I still have not done cause the lines are always too long.

Les Egouts

Tours start at Pont de l’Alma -- smell is bad in summer -- 7e 4.20 euro -- Sat-Wed 11-5 metro Alma-Marceau

Velo

Velib stations -- free for 30 min, 1,2,3 euro after that 150 euro deposit www.velib.paris.fr -- but you need a Visa card with a chip in it. Kind of difficult if you don’t have that.

Chartes -- day trip out of Paris

From Montparnasse station less than 1 hour 27e rt

Tours from  Malcolm Miller 75 min tours at noon and 2:45 Mon- Sun -- also climb tower to top

Shopping

Vanves Flea Market (Marche aux Puces) - take metro to Porte de Vanves. The market is Sat and Sun. 7am to 1pm. This is really the one to go to if you have time and want to wander and look at all the cool stuff. I’ve bought lots of stuff here and usually offer just a little less and they always accept it.

Le Maison du Miel

Since before WWI Mon-Sat 9:30-7 -- 24 ue Vignon 9e www.lamaisondumiel.com M:Madeleine, avre-Caumartin ou Opera -- honey and products from most regions of France

Christian Constant - chocolat -- 9-8 daily - rue d’Asssas 6e M: St Placide -- Just about the very best there could ever be (not cheap)

BE (Boulangerie Epicirie) 73 bd. de Courcelles 8e right bank deli, bakery, salads and lots more Mon - Sat 7-8 -- Oh boy, yet another excellent bakery, food store.

La plaque emaillees et gravee Jacuin--9-1-2-6 mon-fri 18 blvd des filles du calvaire 11e www.la-plaque-emaillee.com -- if you want to buy the real thing -- enameled plaques of all sorts. On the spendy side but really cool stuff. Tiny, interesting shop.

la tuile a loup

handcrafts from regions -- mon 1-7pm, tues - sat 1-:30-7 -- 35 rue daubenton M: Censier Daubenton

Marche bio Organic Market --  on boulevard Raspail between rue de rennes and rue du cherche midi on Sunday 8:30-6:30 (this is a great market, but small. Cheap and delicious crepes for sale)

Art market at foot of Montparnasse tower on Sunday

Market Marche  39 rue de bretagnein Marais --oldest covered fresh food  market food stands -- ever day (close to Jan’s apt.)

Village st paul furniture market between 23-27 rue st paul thurs - monday 11-7

furniture and more at Viadu des art -- boutiques and workshops 119 ave Daumesnil 12e mon - sat 11-7

Clothes shopping -- some of the trendier, but accessible shops:

Agnes b 13 rue de marseille in 10e mon 1-7, tues - sat 11-7

Bensimon 12 rue des francs bourgeois 3e

isabel marant mon - sat at 16 rue charonne, 11e

sonia rykiel 175 boulevard st germaine

uniqlo, 17 rue scribe, 9e


Jan's apartment in Paris in the Bastille neighborhood is perfect for exploring Paris by foot.